![]() You will notice in the film that there is a very small bare bulb lamp above the easel. The native footage was good, but I chose to grade it using Film Convert Pro which I think is a great tool for Adobe Premiere Pro. It's not as natural to shoot without a flip down screen and this is another situation where the definite separation between the X-Pro and the X-T range are obvious. The footage, however, I was very pleased with. It doesn't offer 4K video, nor does it off monitoring via a live HMDI Out socket for example. Obviously the X-Pro2 is not a professional video camera. Small issues I had when shooting this video with the Fuji X-Pro2: ![]() More on this in a later blog post when I've tested more with it and synced audio to camera connection. I recorded the audio out of camera Sennheiser AVX-MKE2. This is trickier than I thought and in hindsight, I think I would have used the 60mm F2.8 Macro. The opening shot of the Joss Stick was shot using the 56mm lens wide open. Sadly, there doesn't appear to be any focus peaking when shooting in manual mode (firmware candidate!). The vast majority of the footage was shot with the 23mm F1.4 lens. As this was more of a test video, I didn't White Balance manually each clip (which shows) - but I was very happy with the consistency of the footage.Įverything was shot at 60fps in 1080 and then footage interpreted down to 25fps in Premiere Pro. I set the film simulation to Standard and all my Shadows, Highlights, Sharpness and Colour settings were neutralised to 0.Īs we were filming in doors (kind of), I chose to use a 3,200 Kelvin White Balance. This is primarily because I prefer to have easier access to the metering options and use them far more often. I moved my Record button from the default position on the top plate, and swapped it with the Photometry button. Wearing a grounding strap will minimize the chance of zapping your camera with static and most likely rendering it dead.Equipment used when shooting this video with the Fuji X-Pro2: Fujifilm X-Pro2Īs mentioned, this was the first time pressing the "record" button on the X-Pro2 and I'd cleaned my settings before the shoot. It would be best to perform the conversion in a well lit area that is as clean and dust free as possible. If you prefer not to risk damage to your camera, have us convert it to infrared for you. – Grounding strap /w current limit resistor – Soldering iron and desoldering wick or desoldering gun ![]() – Our custom glass infrared filter to replace the hotmirror ![]() You will need these tools & supplies to follow the Fujifilm X-Pro2 infrared conversion tutorial: We highly recommend you send your camera in for conversion instead of attempting to do this yourself. This is very serious stuff folks.įocus and dust are in fact the most difficult parts of the conversion process. If this happens we will be unable to help you and even the manufacturer may refuse to service your camera. The mere act of removing the sensor from within the camera could potentially ruin the original factory calibration and render your camera completely incapable of achieving proper focus. Also, by visiting this site you are legally bound by our Terms of Use Agreement, we highly recommend you read it.įocus Warning: Because of the complexity and requirement for specialized precision equipment, advanced training and experience, we do not provide any information regarding focus calibration whatsoever. If you decide to perform the conversion you could damage your camera or be hurt or get killed from the high voltage present – you do so at your own risk, we are not responsible for camera damage or any harm you may suffer or any special or consequential damages. Tampering with your camera will void your manufacturer’s warranty. Disclaimer: This tutorial is intended for experienced professionals and made available to you for informational purposes only.
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